Retro-post Nov. '07: 'Gin'
POSTED AT 10:56 AM in Spirits

campbell

A reader recently brought to my attention that some of my old liquor-related content from another source should mosey its way on over here;  my sentiments were forced into concurrence.  The following is the first iteration in a series of retro-posts.  Enjoy!

 

Gin I thought I'd take a wee bit out of my work day to jot down a few notes on what I look for in a good gin.  The big thing for most people is to simply not be afraid of it.  Quite a few tipplers of our generation have grown up on vodka and prize its purported neutrality;  as such, the crisp flavour burst of gin comes as an unappreciated shock. But for those of us who welcome that fresh, biting quality, following is a basic sketch of how I judge fine gin.  Of course, by definition, gin must be infused with juniper berries.  What's variable, though, is how much of the overall flavour profile the juniper accounts for.  Many individuals' negative experiences with gin have stemmed from having drunk veritable bathtub gin with no alternative flavours to cut an overly harsh juniper element.  To me, I don't much care whether a gin has a mild juniper or an emphatic juniper character;  all that matters is that what juniper it does possess works in harmonious concert with the other botanicals in the infusion.  Most gins are the result of anywhere from a scant handful up to 19 botanicals.  If your botanical brew features a high percentage of some intensely-infused botanicals such as bitter orange peel, cardamom, licorice, et al., then you the gin-distiller can get away with a heavier juniper element without fear of imbalancing the final product.  If you're showcasing the infusion of softer botanicals (eg, rose, iris root, angelica, lavender), however, you'll need to dial back on the juniper and allow these unique flavours to meander their way through the distillate. Which brings us to the second thing I look for in a good gin:  the secondary and even tertiary flavours within the overall profile.  All of the better gins I've had the fortune to taste have featured striking secondary, and even tertiary, flavours apart from the juniper.  Sometimes - though I think this is going a bit too far in the case of Tanqueray Rangpur - the juniper is itself even reduced to secondary status.  Whether it's the citrus-heavy Tanqueray & Quintessential, the floral character of a Magellan & Miller's, or the spiciness of Junipero, the balance of the botanicals coalesce into an effective coalition to combat any designs the juniper berry may have on ginnic hegemony. Of course, Citadelle completely blows apart this X vs. Y vs. Z paradigm by supplying us a product balanced in complete harmony.  No one distinct flavour emerges;  rather, one homogenous flavour envelops the tongue in a measured subtlety, owing equally to each of the 19 unique botanicals.  If you can't tell, I'm a fan. So to close, here are the things to keep in mind when tasting, and ultimately selecting, a gin:  balance of botanical, harmony of flavour, subtlety of delivery.  Don't get caught up on necessarily what flavours you're tasting, but how they sashay and dance upon your palate to foist upon your senses an enjoyable whole, and ultimately satisfying, spirit.

Fallacious Chain E-mail
POSTED AT 03:34 PM in Misc.

campbell

There's a fallacious e-mail going around, folks;  I received it on Monday, and while political, this one actually does not address any specific candidate for any office.  Instead, it addresses the "bailout" package(s) being passed in Washington.  While I'm sure there are many strains of this particular viral assault on reason going around, I'll paraphrase/quote from the one I happened to receive.

Essentially, the e-mail opposes the "$85 billion bailout of AIG."  It claims that rather than spending $85 billion on AIG, the U.S. Govt. should create a "We Deserve It Dividend" that would spread the $85 billion amongst the 18+ year old population of the United States, which it estimates to be 200 million people.  That figure, whether accurate or not, is not the one I'm concerned with;  I'm more aghast at the next figure the e-mail's author comes out with:  that if this $85 billion were divided amongst 200 million people, it would net each of those individuals $425,000.

Let that sink in for a minute.  Bust out the calculators if you must.

.... ....

The math simply isn't there, folks.  Such a plan wouldn't net 200 million people $425,000 each;  it would net them $425 each.  I believe something like this already occurred last April-June called the 'economic stimulus package.'  Even if one were to suppose for a minute that the author actually meant the $700 billion "bailout"/"rescue" plan recently passed through Congress, which may inevitably balloon to roughly $850 billion once all the red tape is cleared, this would - obviously - net a mere $4,250 per individual.  Something which, in reality, makes not a whole lot of difference. 

What's sinister about this e-mail is that $425,000 is a transformative amount of money;  people who read this begin to leap the mental chasms of what that kind of sum would do for their livelihoods, after which point they'll rarely backtrack to check the actual mathematics at play. 

Now I usually don't comment about these types of things, and the last thing I want to do is make my liquor blog political.  In fact, I don't support or oppose the "bailouts," "rescues," "recoveries" or whatever else you want to term them.  Everyone I read tends to have a different opinion, and to be honest, probably only about half a dozen people on this planet even understand the global financial system(s) well enough to have a truly informed opinion.  I just don't want people to oppose these types of programmes - or anything for that matter - owing to erroneous, devious, and fallacious assertions.

Autumn / Winter 2008 Drinks Menu
POSTED AT 12:44 AM in Recipes, Misc.

campbell

After a fortnight of late hours and maniacal concocting in the alchemical laboratory, I now emerge with this year's Autumn / Winter Drinks Menu.  Special mention is owed to Toby Maloney of Chicago's The Violet Hour, Audrey Saunders of New York's Pegu Club, Phil Ward of New York's Death & Co., Stephen the "Boston Apothecary," Don Lee of New York's PDT and Dave Wondrich, author of Imbibe!, whose cocktail recipes and ideas are borrowed and incorporated in portions of the selection.  As a matter of course, I generally wouldn't be so cavalier about co-opting their recipes -- except, of course, I'm not running a commercial establishment here.  Happy reading, and I hope to serve you a drink this season.

 

AUTUMN / WINTER 2008 DRINK MENU

  

Whiskey

Bull City Manhattan - Wild Turkey 101 Rye, Sweet Vermouth, Madeira, Ardbeg Single Malt,

Laird’s Apple Brandy, Peychaud’s & Peach bitters

Bacon Old-Fashioned - Bacon-infused vatted Bourbon, Maple Syrup, Angostura bitters

Cumberland Old-Fashioned - Gentleman Jack TN Whiskey, Peach Syrup, Angostura & Peach Bitters, Cinnamon

Cracker Barrel - Pecan-infused Weller Antique, Coffee Bean-infused Dry Vermouth, Lemon, Egg White,

Maple Syrup, Angostura Bitters, Cinnamon

Duomo di Milano - Wild Turkey 101 Rye, Ramazzotti, Benedictine, Peychaud’s & Grapefruit Bitters

 

Whisky

Whisky Skin - House-vatted Whisky, Demerara, Lemon Peel, Nutmeg, Hot Water

Bobby Burns - House-Vatted Whisky, Averna, Sweet Vermouth, Benedictine, Peychaud's & Regan's Orange Bitters

House of Stuart - House-vatted Whisky, Coeur de Lion Calvados, Sweet Vermouth, Benedictine,

Peychaud’s & Regan’s Orange Bitters

Argyll Corpse Reviver - House-vatted Whisky, Saint Germain, Lime, Agave Nectar, Absinthe

 

Brandy

 Antebellum Julep - Delpech Fougerat XO, Leopold’s Georgia Peach Whiskey, Demerara Syrup, Mint

Flying Applecart - Laird’s Applejack, Cointreau, Lillet Blanc, Maraschino, Lemon, Absinthe,

Regan’s Orange Bitters, Altoid

Imperial Sidecar Floradora - Salignac V.S. Cognac, Curacao, Maraschino, Raspberry Syrup,

Lime, Champagne

Jimmie Roosevelt - Salignac V.S. Cognac, Green Chartreuse, Demerara, Champagne, Angostura Bitters

Improved Rosicrucian Sour - Christian Bros. Frost Brandy, Lemon, Maraschino, Absinthe, Egg White, Simple,

Peychaud’s Bitters, Nutmeg

Japanese Cocktail - Salignac V.S. Cognac, Orgeat, Angostura Bitters

 

Gin

 Earl Grey MarTEAni - Earl Grey-infused Gin, Lemon, Simple, Egg White
Silk Road - Vanilla-infused Gin, Dry Vermouth, Canton Ginger Liqueur, Absinthe,

Regan’s Orange Bitters

Corpse Reviver #2 - Tanqueray Gin, Cointreau, Lemon, Lillet Blanc, Absinthe

Pegu Club - Tanqueray Gin, Cointreau, Lime, Angostura & Regan’s Orange Bitters

Juliet & Romeo - Tanqueray Gin, Lime, Simple, Rose Water, Cucumber, Mint, Angostura Bitters

 

Tequila

Oaxaca Old Fahioned - El Tesoro Reposado, Chipotle-infused Reposado, Del Maguey Mezcal, Agave Nectar,

Yerba Mate-Chocolate Syrup, Angostura Bitters

 Alma’s Whisper - Tres Alegres Reposado, El Tesoro Platinum, Chamberyzette, Lime, Peychaud’s Bitters

Mesotini - Tres Alegres Reposado, Bianco Vermouth, Absinthe

South of the Vieux Carre - Tres Alegres Reposado, Cruzan Blackstrap Rum, Coffee Bean-infused Dry Vermouth,

Bianco Vermouth, Yerba Mate-Chocolate Syrup, Agave Nectar,

Chipotle-infused Reposado, Angostura Bitters

 

Rum/Cachaca

 The Art of Choke - Santa Teresa Silver Rum, Cynar, Lime, Green Chartreuse, Demerara Syrup, Mint

Fluffy Ruffles - Sweet Vermouth, Appleton Extra Rum, Allspice Dram, Angostura Bitters

Cantonese Flip - Lapsang Souchong-infused Rum, Canton Ginger Liqeuer, Lemon, Simple, Egg White, Mango

Imperial Mojito - Flor de Cana Extra Dry 4 yr Rum, Salignac V.S. Cognac, Lime, Raspberry Syrup,

Mint, Champagne, Key Lime Candy, Cane Stalk Swizzle Stick

Autumnal Caipirinha - Appleton Extra Rum, Vanilla-infused Weller Antique, Agua Luca Cachaca, Lemon,

Sugar, Allspice, Butternut Squash, Angostura Bitters, Nutmeg

Hot Buttered Rum - Cruzan Blackstrap Rum, Demerara, Butter, Allspice, Nutmeg, Hot Water

 

Punch

 Chatham Artillery - Scuppernong, Cruzan Blackstrap Rum, Rye, Pineapple, Lemon, Strawberry, Cherry,

Orange, Green Tea, Demerara, Champagne

Philadelphia Fish-House - Salignac V.S. Cognac, Cruzan Blackstrap Rum, Apry, Lemon, Demerara, Hot Water

Hot Milk - Salignac V.S. Cognac, Vanilla-infused Weller Antique, Milk, Sugar, Nutmeg

 

Mixed Bag

 2x4 - Coeur de Lion Calvados, Spiced Rum, Sweet Vermouth, Madeira, Benedictine, Apry,

Angostura & Regan’s Orange Bitters

The Pipe - Rooibos-infused Beam Rye, Linie Aquavit, Chamberyzette, Manzanilla, Benedictine,

Pusser’s 15 yr Rum, Peychaud’s Bitters

Brookline - Coeur de Lion Calvados, Chamberyzette, Quinta de Ventozelo Port, Peychaud’s Bitters

The Merchant of Charleston - Bourbon, Alexander Platinum Grappa, Muscadine Syrup, Punt e Mes

Philosopher’s Flip - Duck Rabbit Porter, Quinta de Ventozelo Port, Vanilla-infused Weller Antique, Egg White,

Demerara, Nutmeg

 

  Dessert

 Apple Pie Shake - Laird’s Applejack, Bourbon, Manzanilla, Maple Syrup, Heavy Cream, Egg White,

Spiced Apple Jelly, Cinnamon, Nutmeg, Angostura Bitters

Incan Gold - Flor de Cana Gold 4 yr Rum, Capel Pisco, Coffee Bean-infused Dry Vermouth,

                  Vanilla-infused Weller Antique, Yerba Mate-Chocolate Syrup, Fernet Branca,

Egg White, Werther’s Original

Ramos Rumination
POSTED AT 03:56 PM in Spirits, Recipes, Misc.

campbell

First, I must apologise for the long lay-off in posts.  I got a new job within the Center and have been really focused on doing my best work, which often came at the exclusion of my blogging and other activities.  One activity it didn't preclude, fortunately, is my boozing, so today while the boss is away in Kentucky, I thought I'd ruminate on an alcoholic topic I've been thinking about lately.

Ramos [Gin?] Fizz Variations

To some, it may be nearly heretical placing the noun "gin," in its above context, in brackets and beside a question mark;  this is a sentiment I understand entirely.  The Ramos Gin Fizz is one of those few drinks that is both savoured and debated by cocktail enthusiasts, natives of New Orleans, and the staff of the New York Times (06.15.08) alike.  While it's integral to maintain fidelity to the original recipe(s) of the classics for purposes of optimal enjoyment, it's equally crucial when attempting to construct riffs and variations -- how eternally confused must a beverage be if its creator deems it a Sidecar #2, only to have its contents be a base spirit of Pisco, modifier of Curacao, grapefruit juice as the cocktail acid, and a barspoon of Falernum for distinguishing variance?  Not a bad drink, perhaps, but the composite result of each ingredient is so far removed from anything identifiable as "Sidecar" that to call it a variation of such is a disservice to early twentieth century dual passenger motor vehicles everywhere.

Thus, it is with some level of trepidation that I embark upon the grounds which shall soon be tread.  The question of the hour, in my mind, is this:  must a Ramos Fizz always and in perpetuity be a Ramos Gin Fizz? 

It is thus rendered the solemn duty to decide 'What Is A Ramos' (regards to Scalia, AG).  Deconstructing the beverage, we find that it is a Silver Fizz with heavy cream, a few drops of orange flower water and inclusion of lime juice in addition to lemon (and vanilla extract if some are to be believed).  "Silver" denotes the dual usage of Gin & egg white.  Many other such fizzes use egg white sans Gin, according to the CocktailDB (e.g. Chicago Fizz, Japanese Fizz, et al).  Thus, we can see that egg white & soda water sours are not the sole property of Gin.  In a technical sense, then, what separates the Ramos is its use of heavy cream and orange flower water.

To some degree, however, the Ramos cannot be viewed on such a technical level;  it is (uniquely) such an experiential drink that it ceases to exist solely as a definition, and trends more toward an aesthetic or idea.  On this level, the Ramos is about three things:  the unique emulsification resulting from the egg white/heavy cream combo, the length of time necessary to shake the beverage (min. 5 min.), and the historical aura that surrounds it.  To me, an effective -- and more importantly, faithful -- riff off the Ramos must hold these 3 criteria dear, rendering the additional technicalities recited above moot.

The natural logic here, then, is that certain, more technical, ingredients become transitory.  Lemon/lime juice can be replaced with orange, grapefruit, apple, grape, pineapple, or even passionfruit.*  Caster sugar may be replaced with various flavoured jams & syrups.  And Gin, yes Gin, itself may even give way to any number of potential base spirits.  I've made a couple of such drinks in recent weeks, and let me tell you:  they are spectacular.  The aura, the ambience, the mystery, the drama and yes even the calling card of the Ramos remains the same, but the flavour possibilities are endless.

 

* Note:  Since the lemon/lime juice in the original plays the 'cocktail acid' role of balancing the sugar, if one decides to forgo an acidic juice, a fortified wine such as dry vermouth or sherry should be added in the interest of maintaining balance.

 

 

Rum & Coke Challenge
POSTED AT 05:27 PM in Spirits, Misc.

campbell

Since the original question over in the eGullet forums concerned not merely Bourbon & Coke, but also Rum & Coke (see posting below), I figured I'd give the sugar-based spirit the same treatment.  Same rules apply here:  3:2 ratio of spirit:cola, 1 ice cube, gently swirled.  Since higher-end rums are generally reasonably priced (below $40 generally, unless you're talking aged agricoles, or rums with limited importation/scarcity), I allowed in a couple top shelf products, though attempted to maintain fidelity to the mid-level ideal.  Results:

Flor de Cana Extra Dry 4 yr:  Seems to really highlight the floral aspect of the rum;  spirit does a good job of not allowing the coke to take over, considering it's a white rum.  Nothing spectacular, but perfectly acceptable Spring/Summer drinking.  7

Ten Cane:  Fairly astringent nose.  Features a really biting attack, sort of evocative of what I imagine thorn bushes would taste like.  Of course that makes it sound far worse than it actually is, but this is a remarkably harsh beverage (not alcohol-wise, but from an integration of flavour standpoint) for such a simple concoction.  **In the interest of full disclosure, I've had this bottle open for just over two years now, though it's still at least 2/3 full, so oxidation shouldn't be at play.  Perhaps there's a reason so little has been emptied.  4.5

Appleton V/X:  Surprisingly, tends to possess the same general flavour profile of the Ten Cane version, but with more depth, better integration, and a bit of a honeyed character.  Still isn't close to being the best representative of the style, though.  From sampling these last two, it seems that the more dry, edgier, idiosyncratic rums tend to not play as well with cola as their tamer brethren might.  6

Cruzan Blackstrap:  Deep, caramalised nose.  Huge syrup note on the palate, borders on becoming too sweet, but then the inherent heaviness of the Blackstrap dials this back.  Enjoyable drink, though the rum tends to dominate the cola a tad too much for my liking.  7.5

Pyrat Pistol:  Tastes like a thinned-out version of Creole Shrubb with a heavier emphasis on the orange peel.  Having just opened the bottle for this exercise, I can't imagine how orange-y the rum must taste on its own, sans cola.  Late emphasis on spice comes through, once your palate's finished wrapping itself around the gigantic orange presence.  Slightly musty.  Not bad, just - - wow, how's this not a flavoured rum?  7.5

Pyrat XO:  I can detect no discernable difference between this rum and the Pistol when mixed with cola, except the XO seems to taste slightly deeper, and smell a smidge more musty.  7.5

Ron Centenario Conmemorativo:  The honey flavour of the rum really comes through here, with just enough age to balance the sweetness of the cola.  A couple integration issues seem to persist, as the cola and rum appear to be engaging in a bit of a tussle for the palate's affections, but overall a very enjoyable drink.  8

Diplomatico Reserva:  The rum's heavy vanilla note explodes through the palate, but effortlessly welcomes the cola without any issues of balance.  Fully integrated, this is a single coherent beverage, devoid of any infighting amongst the constituent elements.  Only marked down due to the extremity of the vanilla at the exclusion of any other flavours.  8.5

Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva:  Spice explosion.  The spice-laden Reserva Exclusiva carries the cola perfectly with seamless integration.  Think the Diplomatico Reserva, but replace the vanilla with a plethora of less-distinct spices.  Wonderful.  9.5

Barbancourt 15 yr:  I was expecting this to suffer from the same issues that plagued both the Ten Cane and the Appleton V/X, knowing the Barbancourt 15 to be among the drier of the aged rums.  Surprisingly, while hinting at that thorny / bushy characteristic that I'm not terribly adept at describing, the age of the rum really serves to carry the beverage through toward enjoyability.  It's still not nearly as suave as the Diplomaticos, or even the Conmemorativo, but relative to expectation this drink accounted itself well.  7.5

Ron Matusalem 15 yr:  Very deep.  The Matusalem's vanilla shines initially, though gives way on the end-palate and finish to a heavier more nuanced spice tone.  Fully integrated.  Almost completely splits the difference between the two Diplomaticos, though carries with it an overall deeper character.  9

Ron Zacapa 23 yr:  In terms of depth, this is the Russian bass of the dozen.  Flawlessly suave, this itself is ironically also the largest flaw of the drink -- the Zacapa 23 is so smooth and understated, that one feels as if he/she is drinking a heavier form of Coca-Cola.  Little flavour development ensues, beyond what is inherent within the cola.  Simply put, this is a misapplication of an eminently suave rum.  8